Well I pretty much said what I need to.
I will put more pages up of engine combinations, but bottom line you will need to talk to me by email or phone.
The photo above is the front of my shop here in Apple Valley.
I'll get some more photos soon. I have had 5 shops over the years.
This is the How To Send Money Page
I get hundreds of visitor to this website, I get dozens of emails every week, but only build one or two engine orders per month.
That means you are probably not looking to actually build an engine.
That's fine, if you are just looking for info on engines go to the site map page for tech articles.
I've placed videos here and there you may find interesting.
My main thing is saving people overseas money on buying a motor from the US and building combinations that are unique.
I also ship parts, and other items.
I have found if I put too many videos on a page it loads real slow, so I've spaced them out throught out the site, so look around.
Or jump to my two youtube pages
This was a Dart 427 Windsor
with an F-2 Prochager Video
I never got a full pull on it
The following I lifted from my other website.
Engine Analyzer v3.4 is a Computer Program for Engine Builders and Engineers to Simulate, Predict and Analyze Stock or Race Engine Dynamometer (dyno) Performance.
This is my fifth work shop over a 13 year spread.
Still building in it. BTW here is my other website StrokerEngine.com
BTW I put this website together myself, yeah I know you can tell, but I wanted some different from all those other websites, like I have said I'm not trying to sell engines, the goal is to dicuss with you what you want.
I get 100 times more visitors to my sites than ever contact me.
I would love to get your opinion of my site, whether good or bad, is the music coming on annoying, is my site to confusing, do you like the tech info, etc.
And if you are not looking to build an engine why did you visit my site?
Outlook Auto email TechJohn@performancev8engines.com
or my main email address firstname.lastname@example.org
Turn Any Road Into A ET Test Track And Dyno Readout
The G-Tech/Pro SS FANATIC PRECISION SERIES is a cutting edge tuning tool designed to make a professional test driver out of you. It has a true 10Hz GPS engine and measures Horsepower, Torque, 60 ft times, 1/8 and 1/4 mile times, 0-60 & 0-100-0 mph, RPMs, handling G's, braking distance and more.
Included items: SS Performance Meter Mounting System DC cigarette lighter power cord User manual Having 60ft times means less speed required for testing modifications.
Free for Builds Exceeding $12,000
Tuning your motor yourself can save you money.
If you buy an Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge with a 5 Wire O2 Sensor you can select the correct carb jets for your final application.
Dyno tuning in California can result in an incorrect tuneup for your environment.
Octane Rating Calculation Methods
There are various calculation methods, RON, MON, and PON or AKI. RON: (Research Octane Number).
Most common fuel used in Europe, Australia and some other Countries.
It is determined with measurements of fuel behavior in a variable compression engine. Results are compared with other iso-octane fuels, wish means, compared with other fuel types with equal number of similar octane molecules present, but not the of the same organic compound. MON: (Motor Octane Number).
Determined also with a variable compression engine, but with the fuel already preheated, variable ignition timing and higher RPMs than the RON method.
This method is more precise on determining fuel behavior on an loaded engine. PON or AKI: (Pump Octane Rating or Anti-Knock Index):
This is the method used in USA and Canada, expressed as [R+M]/2, wish means RON number plus MON number, divided by 2. In other words, it is the average between both methods above.
So, due to the fact that RON is always from 4 to 5 points higher of its equivalent to PON or AKI, the number conversion between USA and Europe octane ratings will approximately be as follows:
USA (PON) -> Europe (RON)
87 -> 91
89 -> 93
91 -> 95
93 -> 98
Brake line locks can be used to hold the car in place without foot pressure being maintained on the brake pedal.
If you want something found on ebay, racingjunk or craigslist, I can help you get it for you.
Vacuum Canister buy you some time having a vacuum reserve, but it does drain away.
An electric vacuum pump provide plenty of vacuum for the brakes, but make some noise.
Replacing an engine with a more powerful StrokerEngine may require increasing the strength of related components, such as the transmission, u-joints, driveshaft, differential and axles.
It may also be a good idea to improve the brakes and if you add enough extra power, you may need to stiffen the chassis frame rails. Traction may become a problem.
Slicks increase stress, where as smoking street tires ease this load on the power train. Long duration camshafts may require a higher stall torque converter, and high compression ratios will require racing gas or octane boasters.
Be sure you plan your engine combination carefully.
High compression ratios, long duration camshafts high speed torque converters work well when racing, but can just waste gas, and be a pain to drive in stop and go commuting to work traffic.
A modestly powerful engine maybe all you need. If you don't have enough vacuum at idle for power brakes.
The first solution I recommend is converting to non boosted brakes. By using a master cylinder with a smaller piston diameter and relocating the master cylinder pushrod to increase the pivot ratio.
While Wilwood have some of the best brake components, many factory stock parts will do the job.
12 Volt Electric Vacuum Pump Kits.
These Classic Performance 12 volt electric vacuum pump kits are designed to produce the vacuum that is required to operate power brakes.
They mount inline between the intake manifold and the power booster.
The pumps are internally regulated to turn on when vacuum drops below 15 in. of vacuum, and to shut off once it reaches 25 in. of vacuum.
These kits include the vacuum pump, vacuum hose, and all necessary mounting hardware.