Comparing a STD 454 block to the beast

The torque plates are held down with countersunk flat head screws and sealant.

Take one discontinued World Merlin Super Block and add a honing torqueplate to the 11.625" block height to bring it up to 13 inches.

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I took two 3/8 diameter .080 wall pushrods and cut them to provide the three different length pushrods I need.

Then I reamed a 1/2" diameter .060" wall chrome-moly tube a pushed the two pushrod halves into it and tig weld a small tach to prevent any movement.

This is how I algin the supercharger to the crankshaft.

I don't have photos of how we welded it together, but this show milling after drilling.

The longer oil pump drive I made from a pump priming tool.

Cutting for the second key for the blower drive.

A total of three pushrod lengths were needed

Even though I'm using Dart Big Chief heads with siamese ports there still isn't enough room for the pushrods.

Stock type BBC heads would have the pusdrods going through the intake port.

4 angle seat cutter.

The follow is a stack of photos show the construction of a 760CId BBC

Toledo Hall orbital seat grinder.

Major clearancing in the oil pan.

5 and 3/4 inch stroke

Assembling begins.

Built to use a Dominator throotle body, but that will change.

Time to make the rocker stands. I located 3 used ones I could copy from. I obtain a length of chrome-moly and started cutting.

Lots of silicone and button head screws.

The only way to clear the oil pump was to raise it 1/2 inch.

Coming up with these studs took some searching

Make a gasket for the timing cover.

With 8.850 long rods stand up so straight in the bore additional clearancing was required to avoid contacting the rod beam.

Even cutting the rod bolt was necessary 

Now I have  coolant under the exhaust ports.

This photo below is jumping ahead, but I want to show that I closed off the large water ports feeding up from between the cylinders to the head, and opened up to 3/8" diameter the holes feeding coolant to the spark plugs. The thinking is this area see higher tempertures so should benefit from more coolant flow.

This crankshaft stroke is going to need a lot of clearancing for the rods.

Because the intake manifold sits above the motor I needed to make a valley pan that also houses the distributor. I first tried to make it from aluminum, but problems welding it had me start over and make it from steel.

Things don't alway go ideally.

This port runner still aren't big enough I'm going to have to stretch them.

​I'll make a tool for the job.

The first of eight sleeves to press in.

After considering how I could improve cooling I decide to add more water under the exhaust ports.

I mounted the block in the mill and created a passage for coolant in the torqueplate.

Drop in a Bryant 5.750 billet crankshaft​

Because I am using a short water pump, using a screw for controlling cam thrust was not an option.

So I bored the cover and push a core plug up against the cam button.

I use a pump drive assemble to align it all.

Considering want the intake manifold will need to look like.

Bringing work on the intake manifold.

First the plate against the head must have ports in it.

Flat head screws were needed to fit the water pump

I took a stock oil pan and cut the ends off that go over the seals.

Then I started cutting up plate and welding, a lot.

Maton quoted me over $400 for custom made pushrods.

I figured I could make something for less

The oil pan holds 8 quarts and is no lower than a stock pan.