Lots of silicone and button head screws.
This crankshaft stroke is going to need a lot of clearancing for the rods.
Bringing work on the intake manifold.
First the plate against the head must have ports in it.
Maton quoted me over $400 for custom made pushrods.
I figured I could make something for less
The only way to clear the oil pump was to raise it 1/2 inch.
I use a pump drive assemble to align it all.
The first of eight sleeves to press in.
Major clearancing in the oil pan.
After considering how I could improve cooling I decide to add more water under the exhaust ports.
I mounted the block in the mill and created a passage for coolant in the torqueplate.
Coming up with these studs took some searching
Because the intake manifold sits above the motor I needed to make a valley pan that also houses the distributor. I first tried to make it from aluminum, but problems welding it had me start over and make it from steel.
5 and 3/4 inch stroke
A total of three pushrod lengths were needed
Make a gasket for the timing cover.
Even though I'm using Dart Big Chief heads with siamese ports there still isn't enough room for the pushrods.
Stock type BBC heads would have the pusdrods going through the intake port.
The torque plates are held down with countersunk flat head screws and sealant.
Take one discontinued World Merlin Super Block and add a honing torqueplate to the 11.625" block height to bring it up to 13 inches.
Type your paragraph here.
I took two 3/8 diameter .080 wall pushrods and cut them to provide the three different length pushrods I need.
Then I reamed a 1/2" diameter .060" wall chrome-moly tube a pushed the two pushrod halves into it and tig weld a small tach to prevent any movement.
This is how I algin the supercharger to the crankshaft.
I don't have photos of how we welded it together, but this show milling after drilling.
Because I am using a short water pump, using a screw for controlling cam thrust was not an option.
So I bored the cover and push a core plug up against the cam button.
The follow is a stack of photos show the construction of a 760CId BBC
Toledo Hall orbital seat grinder.
The longer oil pump drive I made from a pump priming tool.
Cutting for the second key for the blower drive.
This port runner still aren't big enough I'm going to have to stretch them.
I'll make a tool for the job.
With 8.850 long rods stand up so straight in the bore additional clearancing was required to avoid contacting the rod beam.
Even cutting the rod bolt was necessary
Now I have coolant under the exhaust ports.
This photo below is jumping ahead, but I want to show that I closed off the large water ports feeding up from between the cylinders to the head, and opened up to 3/8" diameter the holes feeding coolant to the spark plugs. The thinking is this area see higher tempertures so should benefit from more coolant flow.
Comparing a STD 454 block to the beast
Flat head screws were needed to fit the water pump
I took a stock oil pan and cut the ends off that go over the seals.
Then I started cutting up plate and welding, a lot.
Built to use a Dominator throotle body, but that will change.
Things don't alway go ideally.
The oil pan holds 8 quarts and is no lower than a stock pan.
Drop in a Bryant 5.750 billet crankshaft
Time to make the rocker stands. I located 3 used ones I could copy from. I obtain a length of chrome-moly and started cutting.
4 angle seat cutter.
Considering want the intake manifold will need to look like.